Siem Reap Trip Part II: Tonle Sap

A must visit to Cambodia is its great lake - the Boeung Tonle Sap, which is the most prominent feature in the map because of the big dumbbell shaped lake. This is a special lake because it's size and depth vary with seasons and it is afterall one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia.

During the dry season, the lake is reduced to an area of 2,500 square km and a depth of less than 2 meters draining its water into the Tonle Sap River and eventually merged into Mekong River at the "chaktomuk" confluence of rivers opposite Phnom Penh. However, during the wet season, the lake can swell up to a 12,000 square km and a maximum depth of 10-11 meters. That's why this lake is so special.

At the ferry terminal...

The ferry docks at Chong Khneas, 15km south of Siem Reap town. Be prepared to pay about USD 10 - 15 for the ferry ride although some tour agency might offer cruise packages at USD 20 - 30 with a drink and a meal. Make sure you get there early because if you get there past 9am, there'll be a crowd of tourists lining up for the ferry. And please use the toilet at the terminal because you might freak out with the toilet at the floating village.

The incredible kids of Tonle Sap...

The reason why I think a visit to Tonle Sap floating villages is utmost beneficial was because I finally get to experience and see for myself the hardship of the kids growing up in an environment like that. You don't see smiling faces. Most of them have a worried and sad look on their faces which is so heart-wrecking. A kid that is barely 12 years old is already helping to sail the ferry which I'm utterly impressed and it made me ponder on how lucky I've been to be able to have a normal childhood. Kids there played with snakes like it was some pet dog named Lucky.

Kids paddling in pails...

Most of them are hardcore poor villagers living in the huts built on stilts that looked like it will sink any moment when swept with strong currents or strong winds. These huts barely have proper roofs and walls. Mostly are built with wood, bamboo and leaves. Their kids paddle in pails with hope to get at least a dollar from passing tourist ferries and some in proper wooden boats selling bananas. It was quite scary at first because as we stopped in the middle of the lake to admire the surroundings, you can see boats coming at you with kids jumping onto your ferry and begged for money. Hijacking would be a more appropriate word to describe the whole scene.

It makes you think for one second why they have to live like that. Don't every human has the right to have access to clean water and the basic necessities of life?

The lake is so big, it looked like a muddy ocean...

During the boat ride, one gets to catch a glimpse a bit of river life, the net-twirling fishermen, floating schools, and the commercial boat traffic on the Tonle Sap's main inlet. The villagers are mostly of Vietnamese ethnic and some Khmer. We stopped at one of the floating tourist boathouse which is somesort like a tourist-trap barge with crocodile pits, small Patin fish farms, snakes, some souvenirs for sale and a small educational gallery about Tonle Sap.

The many floating structures...

It was such a memorable trip and I would never forget the happiness on their faces when they received that green note from us. It might just be another dollar to some people but to them, it's like having the best day of their lives.

My advice is to bring more one dollar notes and give them out to them personally as an act of kindness and you'll realise how wonderful it feels to be able to share something so small and yet meaningful. The one dollar you just gave might be the money for their meal for 2 days!