Your Guide to Tim Ho Wan Dim Sum @ Hong Kong

When in Hong Kong, do what the HongKongese do - eat dim sum! Hong Kong Dim Sum 点心 is the city's most famous and delicious experiences. If you do an online search by entering "Hong Kong Dim Sum", one of the first few names that came up would be Tim Ho Wan  添好運點心. It means "to add good luck" this outlet is tremendously popular due to its 1 Michelin Star status, making it the cheapest Michelin Star restaurant in the city and probably the world?!!

Before you conjure all wonderful memories of a Michelin starred restaurant from the deco to its food and service, let me pre-warn you that Tim Ho Wan defies all that. I also found out that it was former chef of Lung King Heen at Four Seasons, Chef Mak Pui Gor started this hole-in-the-wall outlet.

Looking for this place here can be a trick due to its facade that is covered with a bamboo scaffolding and motorcycles parked at the front. Although currently there's 4 branches, I chose coming to the one at Kwong Wa Street in Mong Kok due to its proximity to the hotel I'm staying. It's located right across a 7-Eleven outlet and you can definitely spot it from far due to the queue or crowd.

1st Step:
Get in queue. Start thinking hard if you really want to wait if you already spot a long queue.

2nd Step:

Take this menu card from the rostrum located right in front of the shop entrance. Tick what you would like to order. There's no picture on the menu card except for the giant food poster at the shop entrance. The pictures are no way professionally taken and thus the pictures might not entice you at all.

 These are the recommended dishes by the restaurant. I secretly think that I am capable to take better pictures with my not-so-pro camera.

There's no space in the shop to even fit this baby stroller.

3rd Step:

See this guy here? Hand over your order card, take a number from him and he will advice the number of hours you'll have to wait. No kidding... The first time I was there, I waited for 45 mins and I returned on the 2nd day wanting to have a late lunch at 3pm thinking that there would be no queue. Guess what did the guy tell me? He told me to wait for 2 hours!! Of course I didn't wait. By the time it's my turn, I probably would have starved to death.

4th Step:

Once it's your turn, you'll be ushered to your table. Lo and behold... the seating capacity of this place is only around 26 seats and the space is really tight. The tables are no more than the width of your body (that depends on how wide your body is) but I can see that some not-so-thin customers are struggling. I would strictly advise anyone not to dine here after a shopping escapade because there's no space to fit the many shopping bags. The tables and chairs are quite small and I thought they were made for kids!

Steamed Fresh Shrimp Dumplings (HKD$24)

These 4 pieces of fresh shrimp dumplings costing RM10 would definitely be one of the most expensive price I've paid for at a dim sum outlet but I really have no complains about the price. Inside every neatly hand-made sealed delicate translucent rice flour skin, there's 2 pieces of fresh and succulent average sized prawns. Steamed to perfection, these are so good to even eat it on its own without any accompanying sauce.

Steamed Pork Dumpling with Shrimp (HKD$24)

This is also another obligatory dish for me at any Dim Sum outlet. A good pork dumpling with shrimp should have the right mix of these two meats so that you get the succulent texture from the fresh shrimps and the flavours from pork. The water chestnut and diced mushrooms added sweetness to this dumpling.

Steamed Chicken Feet with Black Bean Sauce ($14)

I'm such a huge fan of chicken feet! And I was quite eager to try the chicken feet here as I know that this delicacy is very popular in HK and especially in China. In HK, they would usually call this "Phoenix Claws" 鳯爪 (feng zhao) which is a more "upmarket" name than just calling it chicken feet. These delectable chicken feet are deepfried before they were steamed to achieve such a flavourful palate. It's soft and gelatinous which tasted so good with the sweet black bean sauce. The combination was excellent. I still wax lyrical about their chicken feet until today.

Vermicelli Roll Stuffed with Pig's Liver ($18)

There were 4 types of steamed vermicelli roll with the usual stuffings of BBQ pork, shrimps and beef but I was attracted to the one with pig's liver. Feeling rather brave, I gave this a try. It has a different texture than the usual pork and the steamed rice roll is soft and silky. There was also ample sauce to give the otherwise plain tasting rice rolls a dash of saltiness and the chives takes away its gamey taste. One caution though - this should be taken while it's warm or else it'll not taste as good as the first bite when it's served.

Baked Bun with BBQ Pork ($17)

The baked buns filled with a rich and flavourful BBQ pork stuffings is most raved after at any Tim Ho Wan outlet. It is afterall their specialty and I've not seen anywhere else that can replicate such buns. They come in a plate of 3's in average sizes that can be gobbled up in 3-4 bites. Oh my, those pork buns were simply irresistible. It has a coarse, airy, and crispy outer layer and stuffed with a generoulsy thick, flavourful diced BBQ pork cutlets and sweet dark sauce. Every bite is a delight. I was wrong to think that these buns are just a gimmick in replace of the ordinary Char Siew Pau that are steamed. We even saw 1 guy feasting on 2 plates of these baked buns by himself.

Tonic Medlar & Petal Cake ($12)

A meal would no be complete without a sweet ending. But I'm not a believer of such practice. However, I spotted this dessert and I am a fan of jellies and no prize for guessing that I would definitely order this. Also called the Osmanthus jelly 杞子桂花糕, this wobbly dessert is made of osmanthus petals and wolfberries. This dessert dates back to the Ming Dynasty. It is said that in Ming dynasty, osmanthus jelly was invented by a packman named Liu Jixiang who inspired from the osmanthus school of a Number-One-Scholar Yang Sheng’an, he decided to make a dessert with osmanthus. This sweet jelly is indeed a must-try!

A check in the internet reviews have shown that the price has increased by $2 for every dish this year. Our total bill came up to about HKD$150 for 2. It's definitely the cheapest Michelin star restaurant! There's a $2 charge for refillable Pu-Er tea and don't expect it to come with a nice porcelain teapot. The staff will be coming with a kettle to pour the tea into your plastic mugs. The highlight here is that the dim sum is only made fresh once you place and order and thus you might have to wait for at least 15-20mins before you're served.

Don't expect a stellar dining experice here because its affordable prices, humble exterior and informal atmosphere come in stark contrast with the quality of the food. If you really want to taste some really good dim sum and don't mind that waiting time, try Tim Ho Wan. I will be back!

Tim Ho Wan

Shop 8, Taui Yuen Mansion Phase 2, 

2-20 Kwong Wa Street, Mong Kok.
旺角廣華街2-20號翠園大樓2期地下8號舖

Tel: +852-2332 2896

Opening Hours: 10am to 9.30pm

SPOON by Alain Ducasse @ InterContinental Hong Kong

The 1-Michelin Star SPOON by Alain Ducasse (Michelin Guide 2012) features contemporary French cuisine inspired by Alain Ducasse, one of the world’s most celebrated chefs. A combination of a celebrity chef and Michelin-starred restaurant definitely warrants a visit. His other Alain Ducasse restaurant in The Dorchester is a 3-Michelin Star.

The SPOON at InterContinental Hong Kong, located in Tsim Tsa Tsui has a decor imagined and conceived by the designer Tony Chi which lavishly showcases the breathtaking view of Victoria Harbour and its stunning skyline.

That's my view for the night!

What's not to love when you have such a breathtaking view at dinner? Instead of siting opposite your dining partner (which I usually do because it feels weird not to sit opposite each other when there's only 2 of us) here, we sat side by side as to not to block this picturesque view of Hong Kong harbour. It took my dining partner more than a month to make a reservation for one of the best seats in this restaurant. When the night falls, the diners can enjoy a display of laser light performance from the towers.

To be honest, I did not have any expectations at SPOON. I just want to enjoy the food, wines, view and a good companionship. When I was served the amuse bouche, my eyes were sparkling. First there was a beautiful napkin folded into a lotus flower carrying these small little "papa johns", then on a shiny silver plate, there's some cute macaron look-alike amuse bouche which is filled with salmon & mozarella cheese and the green ones are the lettuce with crab meat. 

I don't usually place too much expectations on amuse bouche because usually they are bite sized and they looked too effortless. However, these ones here are just spectacular. I love how they experiment with the asian ingredients and then served in the French way. Well, I finished all the amuse bouche the unfeminine way. The breadbasket is equally impressive. This is where you will have to really come empty stomach and try to sample every dish that is served to you. And don't let me start on that creamy butter.... ohh ahh... that sounds like orgasm already.

After all that, we have not even started on our appetiser yet. Can you imagine that? The night falls and we are still sampling yet another stunning amuse bouche comprising a fried frog leg with a bowl of ginger soup. First, eat the frog leg and then let the ginger soup trickle down the throat. I found so much pleasure in drinking that ginger soup. The spiciness of the ginger is very subtle but the soup tasted of savoury stock which I suspect has been boiled with frogs as well. Ahhh... so good.

While waiting patiently for our 1st dish, we had a bottle of 2004 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers which costs HKD$1350 at the restaurant itself. It's a chardonnay from the Burgundy region it's indeed a very good bottle. I like the fresh, spicy and wintermint nose. On the palate, it is buttery with flavours of pears and notes of white flowers. It has a medium body grip, the right complexity and a medium to long finish. Is the bottle worth the price tag? At this restaurant, this price tag is definitely worth it. Mathieu Ginglardi has been a very attentive sommelier as well.

ORGANIC Egg, Truffle & Tomato ($350)

Can you see that the slices of black truffles on this dish is so generous. I finally get to savour these flakes like potato chips! Haha... except that they don't taste anything like potato chips. What lies beneath this pie-like egg dish is a perfect egg yolk waiting for me to sink that fork into it. Very interesting dish which makes you wonder why did you just pay RM150 for some eggs? Oh well... If I knew how to make this, I wouldn't even have ordered it right?

Steamed Duck Foie Gras from "Les Landes" ($390)

This is something different from the usual foie gras I have. Instead of having it pan-seared, this is steamed and served with varies diced fruits, almond and basil. It's quite refreshing to have the nectarine to pair with foie gras so that it neutralises the taste of fats.

 Dover Sole "A La Riche" ($720)

This is a main dish with dover sole, crayfish, mushrooms and truffles. A Dover sole is a long, slipper-shaped flatfish with a small head, light-brown mottled skin and a creamy underside. The meat of this fish is delicate and flavourful but firm. Because one rarely sees this fish on a menu, if there's one, you better order it!

That afternoon before dinner, we were shopping around in Tsim Tsa Tsui and we came across this wine shop called Major Cellar located on Hankow road. I suggest all wine aficionados and collectors to visit this shop. It's filled with wines of the vintages that you'll wish to own or rather sip. They have an impressive line ups of 1st growths of Bordeaux as well as Burgundy. I get to choose a bottle for tonight's dinner and I finally chose this Chateau Montelena 1994 from Napa Valley costing $1980.

This bottle here received a 95 points from Wine Spectator. I felt that I could have mistaken this as a Bordeaux from the nose of this wine. I'm not a big Napa drinker but I do realise that there are actually many wonderful wines that come from this region. Montelena is one of them and I like how this bottle here has a bombastic display of black fruits, hints of vanilla and oak with a full and rich finish.

 

 "Challans" Duckling ($590)

My main comprised of duck with a cereals crust, served with babty beetroot and turnip. It looks like a piece of steak from the outside. I am impressed that they managed to serve my duck medium as per instruction. Along with the duck, there is also a side dish of duck confit with crepes. You eat it like how you would eat a peking duck wrapped in momo skin and cucumber. The duck confit was very flavourful and robust. This is one of the best duck dishes I've had at a French restaurant!

Sorry I had to mosaic his face for anonymity. 

Sometimes you just need some privacy. hahahah

For dessert, my partner has a cheese platter comprises of 4 selections of French cheeses ($170) where one of my favourite is the Comte.

While I had an Almond Soufflé served with Apricot Marmalade and their home made ice-cream ($160). Soufflé has been one of my favourite desserts at any white table cloth restaurants as the soufle shows the true skills of a chef. This one here passes the test with flying colours.

While I thought our dinner had ended, the Maitre D served us some petite fours and some chocolates from Jean Paul Hevin. This is just too posh! I had a wonderful culinary experience here as well as stellar service from the staff. This is truly a Michelin starred restaurant because the service definitely makes a difference. There's no need for waving of hands as they're always there when you need them. For a restaurant like this, you just need to look into their direction and they'll be at your service.

I have to thank my dinner date for bringing me here. The whole dinner costs $4k+ excluding the bottle of Chateau Montelena as you can always negotiate a 1+1 deal where you buy a bottle from the restaurant and you BYO one. Is it worth it? Yes!

SPOON by Alain Ducasse

Hôtel Intercontinental, Lobby Level,

18 Salisbury Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Website
Tel. +852 2313 2256
Fax. +852 2732 2803
spoonbyalainducasse.hk@interconti.com

Hello Typhoon Vicente!

24/07/12

5.20am - Woke up and get ready to depart to the Hong Kong International Airport from Metropark Hotel Kowloon. The flight is supposed to depart at 8.45am.

6.00am - Checked out and head to the concierge to get a taxi. The staff informed us that the authorities hoisted the highest No. 10 tropical cyclone signal for several hours overnight and that morning it was No.8 and there might be no taxis. There's not even a single soul on the streets. More details on the typhoon here.

6.30am - The staff helped to hail a taxi from the pouring rain and strong winds. The usual taxi fare to HKIA from the hotel is HKD$260 and that morning, the taxi driver wanted to charge us HKD$800. What a rip off and moreover, I only had HKD$600 left. I decide to wait for another taxi.

6.45am - The staff was so sharp to have spotted an Airport Shuttle Express Bus passing by the hotel and he ran out there with my luggage to ensure that we got onto the bus. He even told the bus driver that he was crazy to have driven the bus at this weather. I thought we were very lucky to get a free ride to the Kowloon MTR station where we could take the Airport Express to HKIA.

 The bus that saves me HKD$620

7.00am - We ran out of luck! On the way to the Kowloon MTR station, we saw a car reversing out from the road ahead and I thought something must have happened. And indeed there was a fallen tree that blocked the single lane road leading into the station. The driver told us that if we are rushing for time, we could just get down and walk into the station. We did! It was a 5 minutes walk under the rain and some blowing wind and I'm glad we did that or else we'll never make it to the airport.

The Airport Express service is really convenient. One could just take the free shuttle to the Kowloon MTR station, purchase a ticket from the ticketing machine (One Way from Kowloon to HKIA is HKD$90) and then using the same ticket to access the check in counter area to check in the luggages and to collect the boarding passes.

7.15am - We head one floor down and wait for the trains. First train departs at 5.53am and it runs every 10 minutes. It took only about 20 minutes to get to HKIA. It was very comfortable and they even provide information on which door to exit (right or left) if you're heading to Terminal 1 or 2. Taking the airport express saved so much money and time!

 

7.45am - We enquired about the status of the flight at the MAS check in counters and the staff told us to come back to the counter at 11am to enquire again. It's not even 8am and you want me to wait until 11am to check on the status?!! He gave each of us HKD$40 for breakfast.

This is how it feels to be outdoors during the warning No.8

 Sulky face & lots of food and people too!

8.00am - Had my breakfast at Fairway which is on the same floor as the check in counters. They do not accept the airline meal vouchers and I had to pay HKD$30 for my Congee + Fried noodle set. Then we explored downstairs where there are more eateries and we could use the voucher at one of those outlets and so I decide to have breakfast round no.2. That's another HKD$40 for the Nissin noodle with egg and sausages with a honey lemon drink.

  

9.00am - Went upstairs again and have an English Breakfast tea at Starbucks while waiting for the clock to strike 11am. The tea costs almost HKD$30.

This is the fashion in HK during rainy days. 

I saw so many of them wearing PCK boots in colours you've never imagined!

11.00am - The staff at the counter told us that the flight is estimated to depart at 4pm. They gave each of us another HKD$40 voucher for lunch. An hour later, they confirmed that the flight will depart at 5pm. SIGH............

12.30pm - We decide to enter the departure hall. One thing I learnt from this experience is that one should never enter into the departure area (pass immigration) because you can check with the airline staff for the latest updates on your delayed flight and at the same time you can also claim for meal vouchers. Many who were stranded inside the departure area did not get the vouchers.

Did you know that you can always travel in style when in Hong Kong? How about getting picked up at the Airport on a Rolls Royce Phantom for the ultimate ride into the city? You can arrange that thorough the Peninsula Hotel. The one-way trip costs HK1,500.

There is just so many shops to browse at the airport. I think I'm lucky to be stranded in HKIA and not in Manila airport! Well, Zara saved me as I spent quite sometime in there choosing and trying on clothes. Total damage was only HKD$1000 for a 5 pieces which I would never be able to get with the prices in Malaysia. Such a good deal!

2.00pm - After shopping, I'm hungry again and I have to use the meal vouchers. I wanted to eat the Roast Goose rice. It's my 2 nd Roast Goose rice for the entire trip and did you know how much was the rice with a cold Osmanthus drink?!! It was HKD$100!!! OMG did I just had a RM40 plate of rice?!! Instead of topping up in cash for the difference, the lady at the counter was so super nice that she said we don't need to pay for it. I still don't get it until now why did she do that.

 

People who are stranded at the airport since yesterday are making themselves comfortabble on the carpets. Err.. I hope I would never need to do that. The departure hall is really packed with passengers and since there is a lacked of space to sit, some of them even dine on top of a recycle bin!

3.30pm - Went and check out the wines and liquor and ended up buying a bottle of Chateau Potensac  Medoc 2005. One should really buy wines in Hong Kong because it's really duty free and it's so cheap! I just couldn't resist the temptations of such affordable wines.

4.30pm - Finally we are ready to board. The walk from the main departure hall to gate 35 took us at least 5-10 mins as we need to take a train to the other side. There's easily 500 gates at HKIA.

 Gloomy skies and heavy clouds.

5.45pm - The plane finally took off. What irked me is that this is a very old A330-300/200 and the entertainment unit was spoilt and I can see that no staff ever get it checked because the monitor kept dropping. Lucky the flight was quite empty and I had lots of space. I think I ate too much during that 8 hours and I didn't touch the airline food at all when they served us at 7pm. The choices for dinner also were lousy (Chicken Rice or Omelette with Potatoes). Who the hell eats omelette for dinner? And by the way, they also served omelette for breakfast on the flight from Kuala Lumpur to Hong Kong.

9.15pm - I have finally landed in KLIA. What a day!



25/07/12
6.50am - On the way to work...

I'm heading to...

Guess where I'm heading to this morning? Woke up at 6+ this morning to head to the airport and catch the 1st flight to Hong Kong and then to Macau and back to Hong Kong for a full shopping + eating itinerary. The last time I was in HK was about 9 years ago!

Casino will be one of my destination and hopefully I will have some beginner's luck or else I really have to jump from the Macau Tower without the safety harness. Gosh so many casinos and so little time!

I have been deliberating for a month if I should just try their bungee jump from the Macau Tower. To jump or not to jump is not the question. Money is. But then again, paying almost USD400 to jump from a building seemed too expensive. However, that decision is not final. I think it'll depend on how I fared at the casino.

From the 2nd day to the 5th day, I'll be in Hong Kong. I've prepared a whole list of eateries that I wanted to try. I think I'll have 10 meals a day. But I hate queuing up. Life sucks.

A friend asked me if I am MACHO enough to give the stinky beancurd a try? I heard that these beancurd stinks like a sewage and would I put something like that into my mouth?

Why not?

If I can eat 2 Balut eggs on my 1st attempt, why not the stinky tofu?!! 

They seemed so harmless until I smell it from afar.

Wish me luck! (I wanna meet Moses Chan, preez!)